Pathing an image of development

So Peace Corps decided to not bring us into Dakar until after being in Senegal for over 7 weeks and even then we barely got to see a portion of the city but nonetheless I was impressed. Thies, the city we were in for training, is a rather nice city with several larger restaurants, a big boulevard with trees lining the way and big roundabout with a dry fountain in the middle. All of this paled in comparason to Dakar.

The outskirts by where the Peace Corps office reminded me of Accra. Nicer areas with some bigger buildings, wide streets and restaurants with mis-labeled pictures advertising rice, shwarma, soda and burgers for sale.

The office itself is spacious and welcoming. We walked through to meet all the staff and marvel at the bathrooms with tubs and tile floors. After signing a variety of papers, shaking the hands of impressive individuals and descending down the sweeping stair case that adorns the lobby, we headed out.

From there we continued on the wide, well paved road to pass by Wade's (the previous president's) major 'artisitic' accomplishment. I strained my neck to look out the window at this monstrosity. Up on a hill, with stairs leading up to it is the mass of bronze stands the “monument to the African Renaissance”. At 164 feet, it is taller than the Statue of Liberty but in my opinion is much less inspiring and creative. The majority of the statue is a muscular man, flexing his biceps and holding up a child who points out to the distant West while the woman stands behind him, clothing blowing in the wind, boob popping out, and arm flung back. She seems to be over taken by her man's strength. 

For me, as I gawked up at this massive statue, I did not think of it as a rebirth of African art but rather a harsh reminder of how most people would look at this and protest the use of funds for art rather than food. Why would Wade waste billions of dollars on a statue rather than provide food for the malnourished women and citizens of Senegal?

Our Peace Corps van continued onwards along the road that follows the cliffs overlooking the ocean. After a short bit of traffic, we entered into the French quarters of Dakar, which after being in Senegal for 2 months felt like New York City. This portion of the city is situated on a peninsula over the Atlantic ocean.

Sky scrapers lined the sides of the road that was adorned with traffic lights and were pothole free! As we peered into fancy cafes fashioned with plush sofas serving coffee and chocolate croissants I kept thinking, where are we!?!

After eating some of the most delicious ice cream ever, (I got cafe mocha and chocolate chocolate chocolate) we all thought, I could live in Dakar for a year no problem!

We took a quick walk through part of the market area with hordes of people trying to sell bad art and roughly carved wooden statues. The Presidential Palace with its ivy covered gates and colonial style mansion is yet another example of Senegal's development during the French Colonial era. The French influence is more apparent in Dakar than anywhere else. The multitude of large, aesthetically pleasing structures is quite impressive. From this first glance Dakar seems to be much nicer than Accra, the capital of Ghana, and has had actual city planning implemented rather than the organic urban city growth that is present in Accra.

The other thing that shocked me the most about Dakar, traveling to Tambacounda and anywhere else I have been here in Senegal is the roads. Wade's big accomplishments during the 10 or so years as President were building roads, and roads did he build! Cement streets have replaced the typical dirt roads without curbs or lanes. Just 2 years ago a trip from Thies to Tamba could have taken 11-15 hours. We did it in less than 6. It is easy to think that the 'Western' ideal of development is happening in Senegal because of this effort but it is important to look closer at how the health, education and employment of people is evolving rather than to place a judgement based upon a quick ride on a smooth road.

We had a Mediterranean style catered lunch over looking the ocean. Thanks Peace Corps!